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At the beginning of July, Arno Apremont and Michaël Delacour (re)set off for the Far North to cover more than 100 kilometers in a Stand-up Paddle across the Arctic Circle. A week's worth of exploration spent on their feet, paddling through glaciers, tundra and polar wildlife.
Two years ago, Arno Apremont took part in a similar expedition (JSB1534), a world first at the time. When the opportunity arose to row among the icebergs again, the Sup St Barth member didn't hesitate.friend Michaël Delacour, also a member of the island's paddle club.
After a trip to Copenhagen, followed by a stopover in the Greenlandic capital Nuuk, the convoy finally set off from the small village of Oqaatsut, home to some 30 inhabitants.The convoy of six adventurers, including the two Saint-Barths and their guide Ingrid Ulrich, set off on a 110 km journey towards the Baffin Sea. "In July, the pack ice has melted and the greenery is coming back to life amidst the ice scenery - it's magnificent! "enthuses Arno Apremont. While he's come back for the adventure, the change of scenery and the spectacle, he's prepared even better, to take full advantage, despite the sporting challenge: "I've taken great care in my preparation, with lots of sheathing and endurance exercises, because rowing for 8 hours a day tires the body! "Indeed, you can't go out to meet icebergs and humpback whales without being in good physical condition: "You've got to hang on, because if you have the slightest problem, the only way to communicate with the rest of the world is by satellite phone - forget smartphones, there's no network up there," laughs Michaël Delacour. A Newbie from the Great North, "Mickey" as he's known at the club, has experienced a great moment in his life. "You reconnect with nature, no cell phones, no communication with the outside world... this silence, this striking and raw nature, it makes you think about all the secondary needs that punctuate our lives but which, in the end, are superfluous... ".
Comfort is basic, but the pleasure is total, especially when you're rowing in the middle of a dozen whales. "Despite their extraordinary size, they make neither noise nor waves when they sound or leave the water. You wouldn't believe how graceful a whale can be... but when they blow, everything shakes with a deafening noise," recalls Mickey, who is full of extraordinary memories: "For my 52nd birthday, I swam in water at 2°, in the middle of icebergs. I rowed with seals and took the time to contemplate ever more breathtaking landscapes, paddling, or hiking... it's a great birthday present! "
Pôle-Lanta
The days of exploration off Greenland are punctuated by meals, rowing and rest periods, in a period when night doesn't exist. "Endless days feel strange at first, with only your watch to remind you what time it is. Fortunately, Ingrid Ulrich, our guide, knew how to sequence the days so that we didn't lose our bearings too much. And after a day's rowing, we quickly fell asleep, despite the midnight sun. "recalls Michaël Delacour. "Once again, when you embark on a journey like this, in total autarky, you know that comfort will be minimal. Soaking wet all the time, we set off with an inflatable paddle that's adept at navigating icy waters, two watertight bags to hold our clothes, our night gear, our tent, food and enough to warm the glacier water we'll be drawing on to live. Like sailors and soldiers, we eat freeze-dried food in portions. We also have powdered food and cereals. To spice things up, this time I've brought along some condiments," says Arno Apremont, who has turned himself into a cold-weather cook. "On site, you can also fish for cod, caplin and pick up huge mussels. In summer, with temperatures ranging from -3° to 25 degrees Celsius, the catch was sometimes copious. "But the hostile environment, 300 kilometers from the Arctic Circle, is there for all to see. The two Saint-Barths and their small team of riders encountered the sudden katabatic winds blowing from the fjords towards the North Pole, which were particularly icy. The latter put their endurance to the test. "We're skirting the coasts, so we have to be careful not to hit the glaciers, and follow the essential instructions in the guidebook," warns Mickey.
A polar road trip every 2 years
"Of course I'd like to go back! In 2 years, Ingrid, our guide, hopes to go even further north, and explore new territories - I'd love to be there! "harangues Arno, now accustomed to icebergs. "It's a physical feat, but above all it's a once-in-a-lifetime trip, with a small budget to spare, as places are limited," explains Michaël. Back on the island since their summer glacier road trip, the two fifty-somethings, in great shape, continue to wear out their paddles in the cul de sac of the sea, with their Sup St Barth club, advising anyone who will listen that rowing in the extreme cold must be experienced once.
